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Today’s Column · Editor’s Notebook
The Slow Streets of Bukchon
A 600-year-old neighborhood that keeps its tiled rooftops, its hush, and its small ceremonies — if you know how to walk them.
Read the story →
Ask Kim Doryung
Welcome to Korea! I'm Kim Doryung, and I've been exploring this land for 190 years. Ask me anything — cheap eats, free attractions, Korean culture. Baekgu and I are here to help! 🐶
Emergency Numbers
Police: 112  |  Ambulance: 119  |  Tourism: 1330
Korea has no tipping culture!
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Doryung’s Editorial · Field Notes
💱 Live Exchange 1 USD ≈ ₩1,474
FX · WK 17
Where the won is friendliest
1 USD ≈ ₩1,474 — but the rate you actually get depends on where you swap.
  • Myeongdong small bureaus near Lotte — usually within 0.3% of mid-market.
  • Itaewon long-running shops; English signs everywhere.
  • Airport ATM BC / Shinhan — close to mid-market on weekdays.
  • Hotel front desks 5–10% worse than street bureaus.
  • Dynamic Currency Conversion always say ‘charge in KRW’ at terminals.
Doryung

“I have seen yangban exchange silver for hyeopjeon — the ratio mattered then too.”

🚇 Subway Survival T-money in 5 steps
Transit · T-Money
Five steps to ride anything
T-money works on metro, bus, and most cabs. Get one in five minutes.
  • 1. Walk into any CU / GS25 / 7-Eleven.
  • 2. Ask: “T-money card, please.” — ₩2,500 deposit.
  • 3. Top up at the cashier — ₩10,000–₩30,000 to start.
  • 4. Tap card on metro gate or bus reader. Tap again on exit (transit transfer).
  • 5. Refund balance & ₩500 of deposit at any subway info desk.
  • Naver Map (best Korean coverage) or KakaoMap. Google Maps mis-routes Korean transit.
  • First train ~5:30 am · last ~midnight · less frequent on weekends.
🚕 Taxi (KakaoT) Base ₩4,800
Transit · Kakao T
How locals hail
Base fare ₩4,800 · KakaoT app accepts foreign cards · cash optional.
  • Install KakaoT — works without a Korean phone number for international cards.
  • Sign in with email; add a Visa / Mastercard.
  • Pick “Regular” — cheapest, most cars.
  • “Black” = premium 2× rate, English-speaking drivers, leather seats.
  • 00:00–04:00 +20% surcharge on the meter.
  • Outside Seoul may need cash — keep ₩30,000 backup.
✎ KakaoT (App Store)
🏪 Convenience Stores CU · GS25 · 7-Eleven
Daily · 24 HR
The unsung backbone of Korea
Open 24/7 every block. SIM cards, hot food, banking, T-money.
  • CU largest network · best banchan + lunchbox selection.
  • GS25 strong on private-label snacks · cleaner ramyun corners.
  • 7-Eleven fewer locations but solid for hot food + American snacks.
  • Triangle gimbap (₩1,500), instant ramyun + hot water counter.
  • Tourist SIM (3-day ~₩30,000) — passport required.
  • T-money card top-up · phone charging (₩2,000).
Doryung

“These boxes did not exist in my century. Now I admit — they are useful at 3 a.m.”

🚨 Emergency 112 · 119 · 1330
Emergency · 24 HR
Three numbers worth memorizing
Call before you Google. Korean emergency lines have foreign-language support.
  • 112 Police — theft, harassment, scams. Press 9 for English.
  • 119 Fire & ambulance. Same line; dispatchers triage.
  • 1330 Tourism Hotline — 24/7 in EN/JP/CN/RU. Translates live.
  • Lost passport? Hotel doesn’t speak English? Misunderstanding with a vendor?
  • Call 1330. They three-way the conversation in your language. Gold.
🧾 Tax Refund ₩30,000+ instant
Tax-Free · ≥ ₩30,000
How to get up to 10% back
Foreign tourists with single receipts ≥ ₩30,000 qualify. Two refund paths.
  • Look for the red “Tax Free” or “Global Blue / Global Tax Free” sticker.
  • Show your passport at checkout — they print a refund slip.
  • Instant many big stores deduct VAT at the counter — fastest.
  • Airport before check-in, scan at the kiosk → cash or card refund.
  • Stay ≤ 6 months · purchases ≥ ₩30,000 per receipt · keep items unused & sealed.
❖ Doryung’s Free Finds
★ Free
Jongno-gu
Bukchon Hanok Village
북칼한옥마을
Open lanes — no ticket booth.
Doryung

“I have walked these alleys since the lanterns were tallow. Wear soft shoes; the residents still live here.”

❖ Open Map
★ Free
Jung-gu
Cheonggyecheon Stream
청계천
City stream walk, no fee.
Doryung

“A river was buried, then unburied. Dip a hand in summer; in winter the lanterns float on the water.”

❖ Open Map
★ Free
Yongsan-gu
Namsan Park & N-Tower base
남산공원
Hike to the tower, gratis.
Doryung

“The cable car asks coin; the staircase asks only breath. Both reach the same view at the top.”

❖ Open Map
★ Free
Yeongdeungpo-gu
Han River — Yeouido Park
여의도 한강공원
Riverbank, picnics, fireworks.
Doryung

“Bring chimaek if you must. The bridges light at dusk and the geese have opinions.”

❖ Open Map
★ Free
Jongno-gu
Insadong-gil
인사동급
Pedestrian-only craft street.
Doryung

“Tea houses, paper lanterns, the smell of ink. You may leave with empty pockets — that is up to you.”

❖ Open Map
★ Free
Yongsan-gu
National Museum of Korea
국립중앙박물관
Permanent collection — free entry.
Doryung

“Five thousand years in one building. Begin with the Goryeo celadon if your eye is patient.”

❖ Open Map
★ Free
Jongno-gu
Buam-dong Walk
부암동
Backstreet hill walk, café-spotted.
Doryung

“The painters and poets fled here when the city grew loud. The steep lanes are still patient.”

❖ Open Map
★ Free
Seongdong-gu
Seoul Forest
서울쁍
City park, deer enclosure included.
Doryung

“Best at the hour the office towers lose their light. The deer are unimpressed by your camera.”

❖ Open Map
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Source: exchangerate-api.com · Cards accepted most places · Cash for traditional markets
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Subway Survival Guide
5 steps · T-money, transfers, refund, emergency
View Full Guide →
Taxi (KakaoT)
Install KakaoT app → sign in with email → enter pickup/drop pins (map picker works in English). Drivers rarely speak English, but the app shows the destination in Korean for them. Base fare from ₩4,800. Late-night 20% surcharge after midnight.
Convenience Store Mastery
CU / GS25 / 7-Eleven everywhere. ATM inside: look for "Global ATM" or BC Global sign — foreign cards work. Self-checkout kiosks support English. Hot meals: ask staff to microwave ("data-won juseyo" / 데워 주세요). Tax refund kiosk available at major branches.
Emergency Numbers
112 Police · 119 Ambulance/Fire · 1330 24/7 Tourist Hotline (English/JP/CN/RU). Foreigner-friendly hospitals: Severance, Samsung Medical, Seoul National Univ Hospital (International Clinic at each). Save 1330 — they translate on 3-way calls.
Tax Refund (VAT)
Spend ₩30,000+ at "Tax Free" stores → get refund receipt → refund kiosks at Incheon/Gimpo airports before check-in. Immediate refund up to ₩500,000 at major department stores (Lotte, Shinsegae, Hyundai). Keep receipts + passport ready.
Restaurant Etiquette
Water (물) and banchan (side dishes) are free, refills too — just ask "liphil juseyo" (리필 주세요). Seat yourself at casual places. Don't stick chopsticks upright in rice (funeral symbolism). Tipping NOT expected — tipping can be refused. Use both hands to receive/pour drinks with elders.
Restroom Tips
Most are free and clean. Subway / department store / cafe restrooms are best. Paper: older buildings have a bin next to toilet — sometimes paper goes there, not flushed. Accessibility-friendly bathrooms marked with wheelchair sign. Locked at small cafes? Ask for the PIN at the counter.
WiFi & SIM
Free WiFi at most cafes, subway stations, tourist info centers. Tourist SIMs at Incheon/Gimpo airports (KT / SK / LG). eSIM: pre-order from Airalo / Nomad apps before arrival.
Free Attractions
Gyeongbokgung & Changdeokgung palaces: FREE if you wear Hanbok. National Museum of Korea, War Memorial, Seoul Museum of History, most Buddhist temples, and N-Seoul Tower base — all FREE entry.
Basic Korean
Hello: 안녕하세요 (annyeonghaseyo)
Thank you: 감사합니다 (gamsahamnida)
How much: 얼마예요? (eolmayeyo?)
Delicious: 맛있어요! (mashisseoyo!)
Excuse me: 저기요 (jeogiyo)
Help: 도와주세요 (dowajuseyo)
THE HANYANG TIMES · 1836

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